A Weekend in Paris

We took the red-eye on Thursday night and arrived in the City of Lights early Friday morning.  Did we get business-class upgrades??  Yes!!!  Makes a red-eye a teeny bit exciting and ALLLL of the traveling Brian does seem okay for just those few cushy hours up in the air.  I could totally (but won't ever get the chance in this life) get used to flying like that. ;) . Our friend, Dallin had a room at the Marriott by the Champs Elysees, where we unloaded our luggage and grabbed a quick breakfast before he and Brian headed out for work meetings together.  I snuck in a quick nap and shower and then headed out to explore by myself for the day.  Naturally, I did some things that I could never do when we traveled here with our kids....museum hopping!  I visited the Musee de l'Orangerie to see Monet's famous Water Lilies first.  Stunning.  I loved sitting quietly and soaking in the massive impressionist panels in the rooms dedicated solely to this work.  I loved walking all over the Tuilerie Gardens and seeing the famous Louvre, which I passed on this time, having seen it when we visited a couple of years ago.  I snuck in a few shops and even took a few minutes to sit down and enjoy an almond croissant, my favorite!  Then I wandered back to meet Brian as he finished up his meetings.

And, that is why you will see actual photos of what we did next.  Wishing I was a talented photographer is just that, a wish.  So, until Brian tags along, there will not be many pictures of what I did before we met up.  We walked through the Tuileries again and along the Seine River and over to the Latin Quarter, where we ate a traditional French dinner in the most cozy and charming corner.  I totally fell in love with French architecture on this trip.  I don't know why I wasn't so enamored with it when we've gone here before, but on this trip I simply could not get enough!  I love this city so so so much.

Quick walk-by of Notre Dame- still can't get over how beautiful and HUGE this church is.  Love the pop-up shops (the original pop-ups!) all along the Seine.

We slept in way too late the next morning, but still managed to sneak in a run through the streets and gardens where we stayed, near the Place de la Concorde.  The weather on this trip was something else- perfection that just solidified my new-found love for this city.  We showered, grabbed a quick lunch and headed to a macaron class in Montmarte that we were able to get reservations in by the "skin of our teeth", as my mom would say :).  The pictures above, are from our walk around Montmarte and we happened to run into this wall (which appeared to be insta-famous because there were TONS of people there) which has "I Love You" written in every language.

Back to that macaron class...this was seriously the best!!  I love baking, so to be able to do it in Paris whilst making their specialty macarons=highlight of the trip!  It was a small class and we learned a ton and were able to make and take home 3 kinds of flavored chocolate varieties as well as the almond cookies that adorn the tops and bottoms of those sugary delicacies.  It was the coolest thing and I hope I can recreate it some day.  Lauren is way into macarons right now and was so excited to see what we had done, especially when some of our leftovers actually made it home to the USA!

It was such an intense and delicate process.  Our chef was amazing and helped us perfect what we'd made- so all of our little cookies grew their "feet" and none cracked in the oven!  Brian and I chose purple for our color and they turned out so beautiful!

On our last night in Paris, we stayed in a hotel near the Eiffel Tower.  I didn't think I would enjoy switching hotels every night as much as I did on this trip.  It was so cool to see a different part of the city every time we moved because there are just so many awesome areas- I left feeling like we only saw a small sliver of what there is to explore here (and thats after having visited 4 times!)  

We walked all over on our last night- seeing the Eiffel Tower up close as well as the streets near our hotel.  We looked up some delicious Michelin-starred restaurants for our final dinner and ate at the most delicious cafe.  I had melt-in-your-mouth pasta that I'm still honestly wondering how they made it so flavorful.  We gathered some souvenirs (in the form of sugar) for the kids and got ready to head home early the next morning.  This weekend in Paris was just what we needed after having spent so little time together in the last few months...everything about it was perfect!

In Jordan, Part II

Woke up in Petra, excited to start the day....

We took our hotel van to the site, got our tickets, and began our full day of exploration at one of the Seven Wonders of the World.  The anticipation was at an all-time high.  You are greeted at the entrance by lots of local bedouin men and boys trying to sell you rides on their horses to the base of the hike- which really wasn't far at all so, we decided to walk it- and it was such a beautiful day out.  We kept saying how hot this place must be in the summer because the winter is so nice!  Once at the base of the siq, or crack in the stone, which starts your walk toward the first sight in Petra, it took about 30 minutes on pathways through this stunning stone crevasse to the Treasury.  Locals, Nabatean bedouins, are the people who currently live right here inside Petra, but its been populated as early as the 4th century BC when it was a trade route, which generated a lot of wealth- the locals obviously excelled at stone carving, and hence, Petra was born...

We rode these camels around the facade of Al Khazneh- or the treasury.  You can't go inside, unless you're a local bedouin, so we took in as much of the grand exterior as we could.  It was massive and the scope of it was as overwhelming as you can imagine.  I wore my Nikes for ease of walking and leggings under my dress.  The combo was perfect and so comfortable.

Kissing camels...

The bedouins would take you on the shortened 10-minute hike, if you paid them a little.  Worth it to avoid the 1.5 hour hike and catch the morning sunlight! We hiked up/tried to keep up with a little boy that took us to a tent up above the treasury here.   From up high, you got an excellent view of the site, but could also see the many bedouin tents set up for actual residents right on the top of the mountains.  I cannot wrap my head around living up here- it was fascinating to see.    

We then walked by the theater, followed by the loooong walk to the Monastery, or El Deir.  The locals told us the walk was about an hour and a half and we were asked many many times along the way if we wanted to ride a donkey to the top instead (for a price).  We were tempted because my heel had a massive blister on it, but I took my shoe half off and we ended up walking the entire way.  I am sooo glad we did.  The walk was really beautiful and passed so quickly.  I always feel like earning a view makes it that much more valuable when you reach it- this was definitely the case with the monastery.  It felt like it was in the middle of nowhere- peaceful, quiet and stunning.  

We climbed a rock overlooking the monastery and just sat and relaxed and took it in.  Favorite moment for sure.  And we were almost entirely alone- there was hardly a soul around!  We stopped on the way back for a quick drink and then finished the walk back.  I didn't even know Brian was snapping these pics behind me as I was going- I'm so glad he caught the feeling of this magical place.

After Petra, we went back to a local restaurant and ate a late lunch.  Then, we waited for our tour bus to come and take us to our next stop...the Wadi Rum, or The Valley of the MOON.  "The Martian" was shot here, and you can see why.  It looks like another planet, quite literally.  We stayed in a funky little hotel with permanent tents for rooms.  They had a small hike to the top of this huge rock on the grounds, where Brian and I hiked up and he was able to catch the night sky with all of its amazing stars- a sight you don't ever see in NYC.  

The next morning we woke up and Faris, this totally awesome bedouin and tour guide, showed us around a small part of what his family has called home for many generations . Faris lives in a tent with no running water or electricity and only a camel for transportation, which he rides to work 2.5 hours every single day, and he wouldn't have it any other way.  You could really feel his love for the desert as well as the simple life he leads.  We talked a lot about his life and it was incredible to hear.  He was the nicest guy- by his own terms, he was a "good"ouin (not a "bad"ouin).  He took us to a cave where locals go when its too hot, showed us the echoes off the walls of the stone cliffs, wrote our names in Arabic in the sand (with a heart around it, no less), and showed us where they shot some famous movies.  

The pictures do NOT do this view justice.  The shapes of these mountains were so unique and went on and on and on in the distance.  It was quite the sight.  Faris offered to take a picture of Brian and I below...no, that is not a mirage. ;)  Haha!  He did about as good as I would have done behind the camera.

From Wadi Rum, we drove to the passport control in Aqaba, walked across the border into the Israeli city of Eilat, where we had to undergo another INTENSE security check.  The Israelis do not mess around.   We basically had to unpack our entire suitcase and answer a million questions anytime we wanted to leave or enter their country.  But, I get it.  We got through and got on a plane to Tel Aviv so we could spend one more day in Israel before heading home.  We got a last-minute hotel and decided to spend the evening in old Jaffa- which ended up being another total highlight of the trip.  Old Jaffa was gorgeous- like a comfortable old beach town which also happens to be the oldest port in the entire world!   We walked around the charming city and then ate a slow dinner at the cutest little restaurant that sat right on the water.  They opened the huge windows and we sat and relaxed and watched one of the most gorgeous sunsets I've ever seen in my life.  It was amazing.  The meal was delicious and it was the perfect ending to our trip.

I've said this already, but I cannot wait to get back to Israel- even if I am sweating through their intense security checks-totally worth it.  What an amazing country!!

In Jordan, Part I

We woke up bright and early (6 AM Israel time, 11 PM NYC time on my travel-weary body) on Sunday morning to meet our driver that would take us over the border to Jordan.  It was a 2 hour drive from Jerusalem, past Jericho and the Dead Sea (only seen from afar). It was interesting to see the country that must have been where Nephi and his family traveled after leaving Jerusalem- it was a desolate place and made me realize why Laman and Lemuel may not have been the best sports. ;)

The border crossing was quiiiite the event- our driver dropped us at border control (with zero explanation at any point along the way), where we met our tour guide, who walked us through passport checks and payments, then left us to board a charter bus (for 5 sheqels), which then took us approximately 300 feet around the corner and dropped us off at the actual border, where we got in a taxi that drove us about half a mile over the border and back to our tour guide and his driver in a sedan on the side of the road in the country of Jordan.   Wow.  It was the weirdest experience, but I was glad we didn't have to manage it all on our own.  We drove first to the ancient Roman ruins in the city of Jerash.  Excavations have found remains dating all the way back to 7500 BC here!  All things considered (especially that this area was conquered and destroyed on many occasions), these ruins are in incredible shape.  They're not closely monitored either, so you could pretty much go wherever you wanted inside.

An oval forum, colosseum/theater, government buildings, and a colonnaded street make it a pretty impressive collection in what feels like a modern city, about 45 minutes from the capital, Amman.

Just as we started our walk down the Colonnades, the cutest group of school students came out of nowhere- they must have been on a field trip.  The kids and teachers were so nice and friendly- as was our experience with everyone we met in Jordan.  Very warm and welcoming.

We stopped for a quick lunch in Amman, then drove on to Madaba.  Madaba is especially known for their Byzantine mosaics- our tour guide told us they were the oldest in the world!  The main mosaic was a map of Jerusalem, dating back to the 6th century, on the floor of the Greek Orthodox Basilica of Saint George.

I was soooo tired from jet lag and while we were between stops, I was totally passed out in the backseat of our car.  Literally, mid-sentence, our tour guide would ask Brian if I was awake because I was sitting up, with my sunglasses on, but completely asleep.  Ha!  I couldn't, for the life of me, keep my tired eyes open.

Next stop...Mount Nebo.  This is where Moses, after wandering in the wilderness, was granted a vision of the Promised Land, but was told he wouldn't ever make it there. He died on this mountain and is buried somewhere closeby, although no one knows exactly where.  On a clear day, you can see all the way to Jerusalem, but when we were there, only the Jordan Valley and Jericho were visible.

Can you notice the total desolation all around?!?! I can't imagine walking around here for a full day, much less 40 years!

More mosaics in this updated church on the top of the Mount.

We drove from Nebo to Petra, but arrived late at night to our hotel.  We tried to go to "Petra by Night", but it only happens on limited days in the winter, and unfortunately, it wasn't happening on the one night we were there.  Jordan has been a fascinating, old, and very friendly country so far.  Everywhere we went, the locals questioned if we agreed with Trump or not. :) Also, our driver was quick to point out that the Jordanian dinar is worth more than the US dollar, so things in Jordan were pricier than what you'd expect.  On to day 2 and Petra...

In Israel

Brian has been working in Israel a lot lately- in Tel Aviv, to be exact.  So, he planned a birthday trip for me to join him for the week of Dec 7 after he finished a week at the office.  I flew into Tel Aviv, he met me at the airport, and we got a taxi to our hotel in Jerusalem, the American Colony Hotel, right outside of the old city.  We set our things down and then went out to see the beginning of the Jewish Sabbath at the Western Wall.  As the sun sets on Friday evening, the Sabbath begins and most people on the streets can be heard saying "Shabbat Shalom" and rushing to the Western wall to beat the sunset.   It was a fascinating sight to see the Jewish men dressed in their Sabbath best and the woman looking beautiful and modest in their best.  I was truly in awe to witness their dedication and appreciation for their holy day in such a holy place.   We watched the beginning of prayers and then climbed the walls to get a higher look over the gorgeous city as the sun set and the evening glow began.  The higher we got, the more we heard the competing voices of the Muslim call to prayer with the prayers at the Western wall.  I've never seen two such devoted religions in such close proximity with each another.  I couldn't wait til tomorrow get a closer look in the daytime at the history of this great place, that truly feels different than anywhere I've yet been.

We grabbed the most delicious dinner at a little cafe, called Tala, right outside of the massive old city market.  Hummus, falafel, pita, grilled chicken, french fries, and tabbouleh.  Sooo good!  We walked back home afterwards and got slightly lost, but eventually made it back to our hotel, where we crashed- me from a really long day of travel and Brian from a really long week of work.  

We woke early the next morning in order to make our Sabbath meetings at the BYU Jerusalem Center (or "Mormon University", as the locals call it).  They hold meetings on the traditional Jewish Sabbath, which is Saturday in Israel.   It was a gorgeous day and we arrived on campus just as the meetings were beginning.  This sacrament ended up being one of the highlights of our entire trip- the room was filled with such an incredible spirit as we sang Christmas songs...about events that literally happened right outside of this room, in towns not too far distant.  It was amazing to be so close to what we were singing about.  I was getting really misty-eyed because music just does that to me, and this was a really special moment that I hope I can always remember.  We heard incredible talks- the current bishop was being released and a new one was called, so they and their wives spoke.  All of this was done in a beautiful room with massive arched windows overlooking the old city on a exquisite day- it was just the best.   Then, the current student choir (this was their last week in Jerusalem), sang a gorgeous song called  "Gethsemane" about the most sacred event in our human history, and which literally happened right outside of the building.  It was a touching moment that I can't describe with any sort of justice- so moving.  

Gracie Berrett was in our trek group 3 1/2 years ago, when we lived in Texas.  Brian and I were her "Ma and Pa" and she's since served a mission and lived a semester at BYU Jerusalem, where we ran into her at church.  I remember being so impressed with her maturity and sweet spirit even back then- she's such a great woman and we loved seeing her again after so long.

After church, we walked down the backside of BYU Jerusalem to Orson Hyde Park, where Orson Hyde dedicated Jerusalem in 1841 for the return of the Jews.  It has a beautiful well-maintained trail that leads to the Garden of Gethsemane (the traditional site).   We walked through the garden for a few minutes.   This entire area is so special-  it really does feel like holy ground.  We grabbed a taxi back to the old city to explore more there.   As soon as we got in the car, the driver asked if we were Mormons and I asked how he knew...he said he could tell by our faces, which was pretty incredible.  Not that it was us specifically, but the light that we carried- especially after being in a special sacrament meeting and then the Garden of Gethsemane.  

We walked into the market and smelled the most heavenly things being prepared.    We grabbed the yummiest lunch-  it was at this little stand, pictured up above.   They shove all of these delicious ingredients into a fresh pita- falafel, tomatoes, pickles, sauces, french fries- I don't even know, but it was amazing.    We sat on the corner and ate while watching the sights and sounds of the bustling market and eager salesmen trying to unload their produce.   Such an ideal experience.    

We visited the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, in the Christian quarter.   This is where its believed that Jesus was crucified, buried and resurrected.   There are 6 Christian denominations that share control over the church, so the interior activity is fascinating with each religion jockeying for time and space.

We also picked up a TON of gummies at the market- two big bags.  One was for us, and the other was supposed to be for the kids, but Brian and I polished off both bags during our weeklong trip- they were so good and too hard to resist.  Sorry, kids!!  :) 

There had been a clash the night before at the Damascus Gate, so there were a few reporters out, either reporting or waiting for more action.  The clash stemmed from Trump's announcement earlier in the week that recognized Jerusalem as the capitol of Israel.  You could tell that it wasn't a popular move, on either side of the debate. 

We then walked over to the alternate location for what is believed might be the sight of the Crucifixion, burial and resurrection.  A much quieter location, for sure.

We ended here, at this pretty overlook, which is part of the West Bank- designated for Palestinians.   We covered a lot of ground in and around the Old City today and saw a ton of really memorable things.  (I also wore new shoes, which subsequently wore a hole in my heel).  We left early the next morning for Jordan, so we just had one full day in Jerusalem and it left me with a huge hunger to learn more and get back as soon as I can.

Brian's first visit to Israel

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My ink sketch while waiting for shabbat to begin. One of my favorite views in the Old City.

Loire Valley, France

La Product Conf

Paris, France

Brian was in Paris for a few days speaking at a product conference about this. He had a few hours to explore on the Friday before he left so he spent some time in the Loire Valley. We get to go next time :) 

Hawaii and 15 years

We stayed in the most gorgeous hotel in Maui at Wailea- the Andaz.  It was so relaxing to be at such a beautiful place with awe-inspiring ocean views and nothing to do but let go of all stress.  Most of our days were spent snorkeling in front of our hotel- there were turtles seen every single day and loads of colorful fish.  We also spent some time reading, taking naps, swimming in the pools and going on walks to explore the area by us (oh, and also icing my ankle 2x per day).  Hawaii is just something else and we really love it.

We had a rental car during our week stay, so we had to drive the Road to Hana and see all of those famous waterfalls and gorgeous beaches.  The drive itself was stunning- with tons of topography, vegetation and the best views on the windy roads for hours on end.

Black Sand Beach...the sand was tiiiiny black pebbles and really satisfying to sink your feet into.  The water was really rough here so you couldn't swim, but we walked over the cliffs all around it.

Another stop along our way was this red sand beach with a built-in swimming hole- you can see that it was naturally blocked by the huge rocks to create a less dangerous place to dip your toes.  The teal water contrasting with the red sand was so lovely.

Picked up some really expensive snacks at Hasegawa's General Store...worth it.

The gorgeousness on the road to Hana is never-ending!

We stopped at this waterfall (that I cannot remember the name of) and spent a lot of time just hanging out and soaking it in.  The water here was freezing.

Instead of turning around and heading back at the normal turnaround, we kept on going all the way around the island because it looked like a shorter distance on the map.  Little did we know that the roads were nearly impassible at some points and it was mostly farmland, or very dry and arid hills.  We stumbled upon a few gems like this church- I don't think this is the one, but its close to where Charles Lindbergh was buried.

There was almost nothing to see on the drive back, so as soon as we saw civilization again, we stopped and had dinner.  It turned out to be a really delicious meal of gourmet cheeseburgers with a side of a superb sunset.

Brian booked a snorkeling trip out to the Molokini crater.  We took this sailboat and swam around in the crystal clear waters inside of Molokini looking for new kinds of fish.  The water was the clearest we have ever seen- just stunning.  

Dreamiest setting for a week of relaxing...

We drove to Kaanapali one day as well, to explore the beaches on that side of Maui.  Wow- they were incredible...probably our favorite on this island.  We snorkeled, hiked, and then drove all over to make sure we saw everything there was to see. 

I spy a turtle swimming around up there...do you see it??

This trip was no different, in one respect, than other trips we've taken together in the past--in that it ended with me in the ER.  I had such a scary experience on the morning that we left.  After completing an 11 mile training run, Brian and I decided to go snorkeling one last time.  In front of our hotel was a large open beach with a big coral reef right next to it and another large beach on the other side of the reef.  We decided to swim around the reef to the other side while snorkeling.  I lost my bearings under the water and came too close to the reef, and the waves pulled me rather forcefully inside the middle of the sharp and rocky edges.  I tried with all of my might to swim out of it, but the waves were relentlessly pulling me further and further away from safety and deeper and deeper into the reef.  I desperately tried to stand up, grabbing any rock I could, and walk on top, but every time I would stand, I would be knocked down again.  I was truly terrified and thought that I may never get out- because there was no way any sane person would come in there after me.  One of my fins came off, and I struggled to put it back on because I knew walking on bare feet would prove treacherous.  I was able to do that, and then eventually got to a more shallow area, and stood up on the reef and limped/walked over and off of it to the open water.  I felt pain everywhere because I had been knocked about for what seemed like forever, with sharp jabs coming at every turn.  I looked down and could see a large flap of skin dangling from my knee.  I made my way to the shore, all the while looking for Brian.  As my knee came out of the water, it was pouring blood.  I found Brian, quickly and shakily told him what happened, and he helped me get to a shower to rinse off.  I had been badly scraped all over my body, but my knee was by far the worst.  We were told to go to the local ER up the road so that they could rinse and clean out the wound--if there was any coral left inside of me, it would continue to grow causing lots of problems in the future.  We waited forever to see someone, and they stitched me up, covered it with bandages, and told me to avoid bending my knee for a few days- which was going to be easy since I was a couple of hours from getting on a flight all day long! ;)   All that being said, I quickly looked at the incident and my ability to get out of the reef as a total miracle- and with as little injuries as I had- that's the only way that I can explain it.  The entire experience really rattled me because it was one of those things that I wasn't sure I was going to get out of at all.  It was on the same leg that I had rolled my ankle on earlier in the week too- so I was a swollen, hot mess on that side!

We ate our anniversary dinner at the Four Seasons on the 27th and it was sooo good.  Its a tradition to go to a really fancy dinner to celebrate and this one was really good.  

15 Years

15 years (and 3 months) ago when Brian asked me to marry him...aaah!!  We look so young.  Rebecca helped serve us the dinner from Olive Garden- which was my favorite meal back then- ha!  Happy 15 Brian!!

Oahu, HI

For our 15th anniversary, Brian and I (but mostly Brian- I'm one lucky wife!) planned a trip to Hawaii.  We went to Kauai for our honeymoon, so its a really special place for us.  We haven't been back since then, so once Brian planned this trip, we were both so excited to be back there and celebrate.  We flew into Oahu for one night and stayed at a hotel on the beach.  We woke up early to go on a long run because I'm training for a half marathon, and Brian usually goes with me for the better part of my runs.  I had 10 miles to do this time; we ran the first 3 or 4 together, after which Brian had to turn around to check out of our hotel.  Around mile 5, I was running through a gorgeous neighborhood and got really caught up in looking around and didn't notice that the sidewalk severely shortened in front of me, causing me to miss the edge and roll my ankle really bad.  I had to sit down for a few minutes and breathe through the pain.  I had no way to contact Brian and really no way for him to come and help me anyway because we didn't have a car. My only choice was to run or walk back the 5 miles that I'd come up.  I was really worried about it, but after limping a bit into the run, I was able to pick up speed again and actually ran with little to no pain.  It was pretty miraculous because as soon as I stopped, my ankle became extremely swollen and bruised.  I iced it and hoped that it was less severe than it looked so that I could do my half marathon in 4 weeks.  We got our car and drove to meet up with our pseudo-daughter, Elle, who is at BYU- Hawaii.  It was so fun to see her again (she lived with us in London when we first moved there) and have her show us around the island a little bit.  It was a wet day, but we wanted to do a hike that would really pay off.  Elle took us to Three Peaks, or the Olomana Trail.  Didn't take us too long to realize this wasn't a hike for beginners, or us city-folks. ;)  Elle pretty much jumped up the mountain and made it look so easy.  Whatever the work to get up here, the views were most definitely worth it- even with a total bum ankle!! 

Crazy beautiful views.  We chatted the entire 3 hours up and down and it was so fun to catch up and hear all about her adventurous college life in Hawaii.  Life is pretty good for these lucky BYU-H kids that get to live in such a beautiful place.  On another note, we didn't bring a drop of water or a single snack, so by the end, we were famished and so thirsty.  Not smart.  Brian and I really had no idea what we were getting into...haha.

We were literally scaling rock cliffs with sheer drop-offs that made your stomach do flips.  It was by far the hardest hike Brian and I have ever been on.

Afterwards, we got a drink, went back to Elle's apartment, rinsed the mud off of our bodies, and then went to grab the best burgers at Seven Brothers with her roomates.  We also drove around the temple there- which was so gorgeous.  Loved spending time with Elle! Next day....off to Maui!